Epic Falkland, South Georgia, Weddell Sea and Antarctica Voyage on Scenic Eclipse (Oct-Nov 2025)

One year ago, I was fortunate to board Scenic Eclipse for an amazing experience (see blog here). Today (Oct 22 2025), I am going to board the beautiful ship again for an epic Falkland, South Georgia, Weddell Sea and Antarctica trip. If weather permits, I might be able to even see Emperor Penguins! Please stay tuned for my timely updates :-)

October 22, 2025 (Wednesday) – Buenos Aires

Boarding began right on schedule at 2 p.m. , though the process started with a small surprise. Under the sign for Terminal de Cruceros Quinquela Martín was not a check-in counter, but a café. While I was puzzling over where to go, a friendly taxi driver called out and pointed me in the right direction.

After check-in, we were escorted to a bus stop for a short shuttle ride to the pier, where the Scenic Eclipse awaited us. The reception staff gave us a warm welcome, followed by a brief safety orientation from a member of the expedition team, who then guided us to our suite. Shortly after, our butler Ryan arrived and walked us through the many features of our cabin.

Our cabin, #525, is a Deluxe Veranda Suite (DB), a spacious 366 sq ft retreat. The large mirror beside the balcony door doubles as a TV with daily programs and trip information. The minibar was already stocked with beer and soft drinks, and the cabin came equipped with both a coffee and tea machine. We also found binoculars, bathrobes, slippers, and even two pairs of umbrellas, a thoughtful touch!

Before the ship set sail, Cruise Director Kathryn Moon and Discovery Leader Helena Schofield hosted a welcome briefing and introduced the ship’s crew to our group of 140 passengers.

It was also the first time our Polar Dream Travel group met in person. We enjoyed dinner together at Koko’s Asian Fusion, featuring dishes like soft-shell crab and sea bass. When I couldn’t decide between them, our lovely waiter insisted I try both, a delicious suggestion!

October 23, 2025 (Thursday) – At Sea

The Eclipse sailed smoothly overnight as we made our way toward the Falkland Islands. After trying on the complimentary parkas found in our cabin yesterday, I stopped by reception this morning to exchange mine for a different size.

Several activities were scheduled in the Deck 4 theatre throughout the day. The mandatory IAATO and Zodiac briefing took place at 10 a.m., followed by a ship tour led by Kathryn at 2 p.m.

The tour began on Deck 10, where two jacuzzis sit at the aft. On Deck 7, we explored the gym, sauna, yoga area, steam room, plunge pool, and spa. The Observatory Lounge, Library, and Terrace occupy the forward section of Deck 5, while the Gift Shop and Theatre are on Deck 4. Finally, the Mud Rooms and self-service laundry are located on Deck 3, all neatly designed and easy to navigate.

Later in the afternoon, Discovery Leader Helena hosted our first daily briefing. She introduced our planned itinerary, and explained that the ice conditions in the Weddell Sea were still quite severe. The distance from the ice edge to Snow Hill Island remained over 100 miles. Fingers crossed, we still have about ten days before we reach that area, so there’s time for the situation to improve!

In the evening, Captain Ned Tutton and his team warmly welcomed everyone at the Captain’s Welcome Reception. Dinner followed at Elements, featuring a delicious selection of Italian dishes — the duck breast and seabass were both outstanding!

October 24，2025 (Friday) – At Sea

I was woken up early in the morning by an announcement from our expedition leader, Helena. A whale had been spotted in front of our ship, leaping high into the air! I quickly threw on some clothes and rushed out to the open deck on Deck 5. It was 7 o’clock in the morning.

A small group had already gathered there. Just 50 meters off the starboard side, a southern right whale was lifting its massive tail high above the water again and again. As we watched in awe, a baby whale appeared beside its mother, an unforgettable sight.

Although it was another day at sea, our schedule was quite full. I attended mandatory briefings for kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and helicopter excursions. I also went through biosecurity inspection and boot fitting.

For dinner, we headed to Azure for a more relaxed meal. The menu offered pasta, pizza, hamburgers, and hotdogs. I chose the seafood pasta, served along with a light chicken broth.

It was a mostly cloudy day, but by evening the sun broke through, painting the horizon with warm, colorful tones as it set , a perfect ending to the day!

October 26, 2025 (Sunday) – West Point Island, West Falkland Islands

Yesterday was our last full day at sea before reaching the Falkland Islands. In the morning, I attended a fascinating lecture about penguins - vivid, informative, and fun. By the afternoon, the wind picked up, and waves reached over four meters high. I decided it was the perfect excuse to take a good rest, and ended up sleeping straight through to the evening! So I ordered room service. The butler delivered it pretty quickly and even made us a special egg fried rice - warm, comforting, and delicious.

When I woke up this morning, the first thing I heard was the sound of strong wind howling outside. Opening the balcony door, I saw slopes dotted with bright yellow gorse flowers shimmering against the wind and drizzle. As expected, our planned 8 a.m. landing was postponed.

Luckily, it seemed as if the weather gods heard our prayers. The wind gradually calmed, and by 10:30 a.m., we were among the first group of passengers to set foot on West Point Island.

We hiked uphill along a grassy path, then turned toward the island’s western side. After about 2.2 kilometers, we arrived at Devil’s Nose, and the view took my breath away. Stretching inland from the cliff edge was a vast nesting colony of black-browed albatrosses, imperial shags, and rockhopper penguins.

The large albatrosses sat firmly on their nests, occasionally standing to stretch their wings or shift position, revealing the huge eggs beneath them. The rockhopper penguins, on the other hand, were far more animated. Every little movement or gust of wind would set them off squawking loudly, triggering a chorus from nearby albatrosses and penguins alike. It was both spectacular and comical, a true symphony of the wild.

October 26, 2025 (Sunday) – Saunders Island, West Falkland Islands

Our afternoon landing plan for Saunders Island had to be adjusted, as the waves were too rough at the original site. Around 4:30 p.m., our Blue Group boarded the Zodiacs and headed toward the beach as the first guests to land.

“Dolphins!” someone suddenly shouted. Not far from us, black fins appeared above the water.

At first, we thought there were only one or two, but soon, more than a dozen dolphins were swimming alongside our boat - darting left and right, sometimes surfacing, sometimes diving below. Their black-and-white bodies shimmered against the green sea, as if they were giving us a grand welcome!

Saunders Island has a wide stretch of white sandy beach. The wind was still strong, and several expedition crew members stood waist-deep in the surf to help us disembark from the Zodiacs.

Joining us ashore were a few Magellanic penguins, while two Gentoo penguins waddled calmly along the beach, curiously observing us, these unexpected visitors.

Not far from the shore stood the famous kings, the majestic King Penguins. Adult King Penguins and their fluffy, kiwi-colored chicks stood proudly in the wind, exuding a regal presence.

The most dramatic terrain belonged to the Rockhopper Penguins. They built their nests on steep slopes above the rocky shoreline. After feeding in the sea, the adults would hop step by step up the rocks to return to their hungry chicks waiting above.

All around were the cheerful calls of penguins, mingling with the crashing sound of waves in the distance. A lively group of dolphins continued surfing in the bay.

On this small stretch of beach, four different penguin species live and breed together - what an incredible stroke of luck for us to witness such a scene!

October 27, 2025 (Monday) – Stanley, East Falkland Islands

Today we arrived at Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. Located on East Falkland, this charming town has a population of about 2,000. In 2022, it was officially designated as a city by the British government during the celebrations of Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee.

In the morning, our group set out for Gypsy Cove, about 6.5 kilometers northwest of Stanley and part of a national nature reserve. Beyond its pristine white beaches and remnants of World War II gun emplacements, Gypsy Cove is also a natural habitat for Magellanic penguins.

The wind was strong again today. Following the boardwalk trail, we passed Yorke Bay and Gypsy Cove - dazzling white sand, golden gorse bushes, emerald-green water, and patches of blue sky breaking through the clouds created a scene straight out of a postcard.

The Falklands truly are a paradise for bird lovers. Looking out from the rocky cliffs along the shore, I could spot at least five or six different species resting and nesting (Magellanic Cormorant and Black-crowned night herons among others). During my last visit, this area was filled with Magellanic penguins, but today we only saw one from a distance on the beach. Maybe the season was still young. The last time when I visited, it was mid November. Just as I was feeling a bit disappointed on our way back, a fellow traveler ahead of me suddenly waved excitedly - there it was, a Magellanic penguin tucked in its burrow, quietly incubating its egg!

On the return, we stopped to photograph the Lady Elizabeth shipwreck, a haunting and beautiful relic near the harbor.

In the afternoon, I joined a walking tour of Stanley organized by the ship. Our guide, who is a local school teacher, led us to several landmarks - Jubilee Villas, the southernmost Anglican Cathedral in the world, the Whalebone Arch, the Dockyard Museum, and the Falklands War Memorial. Before heading back to the pier, I made a special stop at the post office to pick up a few first day covers, lovely keepsake from this remote corner of the world. On the dock, a playful seal even popped up to give us an impromptu farewell performance!

Dinner tonight was something truly special - a reservation-only experience at Nightmarket, a specialty restaurant onboard that serves just eight guests per setting. Tonight’s theme was Asian cuisine, featuring two appetizers, a soup, four main courses, and a dessert - inspired by dishes from Vietnam, China, Cambodia, Korea, and Laos. Every plate was exquisitely presented, and almost too beautiful to eat!

October 30, 2025 (Thursday) – Salisbury Plains, South Georgia

After two full days at sea, our ship arrived at Salisbury Plains in South Georgia early this morning. The weather was unbelievably beautiful - brilliant sunshine, a pristine blue sky, with just a few wisps of feather-light clouds. Snow peaks stretched endlessly into the distance, glaciers shimmered under the sun with an icy silver glow. It truly felt like our ship had sailed straight into a massive oil painting.

As I pushed open the door to the viewing deck in the front of Deck 5, a gust almost knocked me off balance. The scene before my eyes rendered me speechless. Countless adult king penguins in white and their little fluffy brown chicks carpeted the foothills. On the beach lay massive elephant seals. Overhead, petrels and seabirds danced freely in the wind. All I wanted was to jump on a zodiac immediately and rush toward that dreamlike world we had been longing for.

Our Blue Group was scheduled to be the second group landing at 9am. When I arrived fully geared up at the Deck 4 mud room, everyone was already ready to go. Just as it was our small Team 4’s turn, the PA announcement came on. The Captain announced: wind gusts outside had instantly exceeded 70 knots. For safety reasons, the morning landing was cancelled.

Everyone fell instantly from exhilaration straight to absolute zero. But this is exactly the essence and charm of expedition trip. The only thing certain is uncertainty itself. Cherish every minute you have, because you never know what awaits you next.

At lunch, I ran into our Blue Group’s Team 1 members who actually made it ashore. They were called back after only seven minutes. A kind lady from the Red Group shared the precious photos she captured that morning, which gave us at least a tiny bit of consolation.

October 30, 2025 (Thursday) – Fortuna Bay, South Georgia

Considering the situation in the morning, the expedition team adjusted the landing plan to allow our Blue Group the first to land at Fortuna Bay in the afternoon. This is also the place where Shackleton began his final mountain crossing to Stromness Whaling Station in order to save his men stranded on Elephant Island.

Even before our zodiac reached the shore, we saw small groups of king penguins already waiting for us on the beach. Looking up, snow-covered mountains were gently wrapped in thin mist. At the foot of the glacier lay a calm lagoon, and right beyond that, an endless plain occupied by tens of thousands of king penguins. No matter where I looked, my eyes could never catch up with everything happening at once.

The little ones waddled and swayed, taking a few steps then suddenly slipping a little on loose pebbles. They would just freeze for two seconds… then continue wobbling forward. Watching them made me involuntarily laugh out loud.

On the other side of the beach, it was the world of fur seals and elephant seals. Fur seals stood upright with shiny coats reflecting the sun; giant elephant seals lay motionless like mountains, producing deep snoring sounds.

Time felt as if it passed in a flash. I took the last zodiac back, reluctant to leave.

Still craving more after returning to the ship, I grabbed a couple friends and we headed straight to the jacuzzi on Deck 10. Champagne in hand, soaking in warm bubbling water and celebrating this rare, hard-earned encounter with Antarctica.

October 31, 2025 (Friday) – Jason Harbor, South Georgia

When I pulled open the curtains this morning, it was another dazzling sunny day. Our plan for the morning was a Zodiac cruise around Jason Harbor.

Large and small elephant seals and fur seals covered the entire beach. The bull elephant seals with their big noses looked like they were in deep sleep, but from time to time they would open their eyes slightly to check their surroundings. If another male ever has the intention to intrude on their territory, they will immediately lift their heads, move their massive bodies quickly, and chase the opponent away.

The female elephant seals on shore were much gentler. Sometimes they looked around curiously, sometimes they flicked little pebbles on their bodies to cool off, and occasionally they would suddenly open their mouths and roar. Newborn pups clung tightly to their mothers, always trying to nurse whenever they had the chance.

South Georgia is full of lush tussac grass, home to so many wildlife species. A small group of poor little king penguins wandered back and forth among the seals, as if trying to find a path through.

It is spring in South Georgia now. Everything is awakening, full of vibrant life. On our way back, a pair of pintail ducks put on a romantic little show for everyone, the perfect ending to our morning adventure!

October 31, 2025 (Friday) – Grytviken, South Georgia

In the afternoon, our ship slowly sailed into Grytviken, the capital of South Georgia. Founded in 1904 by Norwegian Larsen, it was once the commercial center of the whaling industry.

Grytviken is also the final resting place of Shackleton. After landing, our very first stop was his grave. We stood quietly in front of it for a few moments, paying tribute to this great pioneer.

Among the tussac grass along the shore, dozens of elephant seals of all sizes were lying everywhere. A bull elephant seal suddenly let out a loud roar and stormed from the shoreline toward another male in a pond inland. After he successfully chased the intruder away, he spun around and immediately started getting affectionate with a nearby female. Meanwhile, two fur seals on the other side were not willing to lose either. They stood upright, stared at each other, roared, and tried to force the other off their territory.

Walking among the rusted, time-worn whaling ships and what remained of the old factory, it felt like history from more than a century ago was unfolding right in front of my eyes. I wandered into the restored church, climbed up to the second floor, pulled the rope, and listened as the bells rang out one after another. I sincerely hope humanity can learn from history and head toward a better future.

It was Halloween today. The restaurant onboard switched over to a Halloween theme, and all the breads and desserts were reshaped into spooky designs. Passing by the Deck 4 bar, I suddenly saw two passengers dressed like mythical beast heads sitting at the bar smiling at me. It scared the life out of me. Dinner tonight was Koko’s Sushi - absolutely perfect in appearance, aroma and taste!

November 1, 2025 (Saturday) — South Georgia, Godthul

Our ship continued sailing south overnight. By 8 a.m., we were fully geared up and boarding the zodiacs again.

It was a cloudy morning. Every now and then, the sky would tear open just enough to reveal a few soft patches of blue. It felt very early for me - yet the wildlife was already in full rush hour mode. 

White gulls and Antarctic terns darted back and forth above us. Along the rocky cliffs, a waterfall tumbled straight down to the shoreline. Elephant seals stared at us with wide, curious eyes. Among the packed crowd of king penguins on the beach, there was even one lone, slightly rebellious Gentoo mixed in.

Blue-eyed shags were calling from their nests high on the cliffs near the water. And just offshore, a male elephant seal was rolling and playing. The massive body moving through the water with surprising lightness and grace.

This is what a Godthul morning feels like - pure, overflowing life force.

November 1, 2025 (Saturday) — South Georgia, St. Andrew's Bay

This afternoon’s landing at St. Andrew’s Bay was a place I had been waiting for. The bay stretches about 3 km and is the largest king penguin breeding colony in all of South Georgia, home to at least 150,000 pairs of king penguins, plus countless elephant seals and fur seals.

The sky remained grey, with light drizzle drifting on and off - yet none of it dampened my excitement.

Even before our zodiac reached shore, the scene already stunned me. On the beach and in the water, elephant seals and fur seals of all sizes lay scattered everywhere. All around us was a world dominated entirely by king penguins. Some stood, some waddled, some surfed the waves, so much was happening at the same time you almost couldn’t keep up.

A skua chased a newborn elephant seal pup relentlessly. A massive bull elephant seal pursued a female from land, into the sea, and then back onto the beach again. In rivers formed by melting glacier water, huge clusters of king penguins stood chattering loudly. And if you didn’t pay attention, a few curious penguins would just wobble right toward you, forcing you to step aside quickly.

After the landing, we took the zodiacs along the coastline. From the foothills of the mountains all the way down to the sea, brown fluffy juvenile king penguins and sleek white-bellied adults filled every inch of land.

Words truly fall short here. Only being physically present can communicate the sheer power of nature.

Dinner tonight was back onboard at Lumiere, refined French cuisine paired with a silky glass of red wine. A perfect ending to an unforgettable day.

November 2, 2025 (Sunday) — South Georgia, Larsen Harbour / Drygalski Fjord

This was our final day in South Georgia. Our ship sailed all the way down to the island’s southern tip, Drygalski Fjord.

In the morning, we took zodiac cruising inside Larsen Harbour, a side inlet off Drygalski. The landscape here blends South Georgia’s signature tussock grass with the pure icy world reminiscent of the Antarctic Peninsula. It was the first time in

South Georgia we saw such thick snow right at the shoreline.

A young fur seal stood upright staring at us. A lone Gentoo penguin shuffled awkwardly across the snow. Nearby, an elephant seal lay motionless as if after a fierce battle with half its body streaked with blood, shocking to witness.

Blue-eyed shags struggled to take off from the water, circling a few times before diving straight back in. A Pintado petrel floated calmly, dipping below the surface from time to time to feed. Two young fur seals played and rolled around at the edge of the snow. Eventually, we reached the very end of the fjord, where we took a group photo in front of the glacier, sealing that moment in our memory.

Later, the ship slowly sailed deeper into Drygalski Fjord itself. Sheer snowy mountains rose on both sides, and massive glaciers poured straight down from the valley head. The wind on deck was brutally sharp - almost impossible to stand against - and yet everyone braved the cold to take photos, to keep looking, to keep imprinting this place one more time.

In this freezing wind, our time in South Georgia came to its final close.

November 5, 2025 (Wednesday) Antarctic Peninsula, Brown Bluff

After two days at sea, we finally entered Antarctic waters. Around 4:30pm yesterday, our ship slowly sailed between the snow-capped Clarence Island and Elephant Island. A group of whales spouting mist seemed to perform a ceremonial opening act for our arrival to Antarctica.

As the ship continued south, the outlines of large land masses began to appear through the drifting clouds. By nightfall, the ocean surface was gradually covered with floating ice.

This morning when I opened the balcony door, a massive tabular iceberg silently drifted past our ship, as if announcing: Weddell Sea, here we come!

This morning’s landing site was Brown Bluff. Deep blue skies, calm sea, floating ice everywhere, and giant icebergs of all shapes in the distance. It was so beautiful it felt unreal. The Zodiac glided across silky water, leaving faint white trails behind. Every now and then, we could even hear the rumble of a helicopter from afar.

Once ashore, the slopes were still covered in snow. Everywhere we looked, gentoo penguins were busy in every direction. Some waddled up from the sea, some claimed a big rock preparing to build nests, and some carried small pebbles rushing “home.” Not far from the shore, a few lucky guests from our ship were paddle boarding, gliding across the water like inside a painting.

Just as we were about to continue toward the Adélie penguin colony, one of the expedition staff stopped me. The sea ice was moving quickly toward shore and the ship had to leave immediately. I had no choice but to retreat disappointedly. As if to console us, a group of gentoo penguins jumped alongside our Zodiac, giving us a private close-range show!

At 1pm, we went to the helicopter deck on Deck 8 for our long-awaited Antarctic scenic flight. I’ve flown helicopters in Alaska and Greenland before, but never in Antarctica!

As the helicopter lifted off, the Scenic Eclipse grew smaller beneath us. Brown mountains were capped in white snow, the islands were seamlessly connected by ice. Under the blue sky, the deep blue ocean was dotted with ice floes of all sizes, like a galaxy fallen onto Earth.

After the activity, Scenic Eclipse continued south toward Snow Hill Island. Pancake ice, uniquely shaped here in the Weddell Sea, drifted past the side of the ship. Some sharp-eyed expedition staff even spotted a few crabeater seals sunbathing on the ice. The weather was unbelievably good. Kathryn and Jamie even held a small music session on the helicopter deck. Laughter and songs drifted all the way across the horizon.

During the evening briefing, our expedition leader Helena delivered thrilling news: weather and ice conditions were perfect and we would proceed with tomorrow’s planned landing at Snow Hill Island! The room instantly erupted with excitement.

Early in the voyage, we had seen the Weddell Sea ice chart. Everywhere south of Antarctic Sound was filled with ice and no ships could get through. Everyone had been holding their breath ever since. Because seeing emperor penguins at Snow Hill Island was the ultimate dream of this journey.

To successfully land at Snow Hill Island, four conditions must be met:

1. There must be navigable water for the ship around the island, within helicopter flight distance from the emperor penguin colony

2. The island must have enough stable ice for the emperor penguins to stay

3. Weather must be stable enough for helicopter flights and for guests to hike 2 km

4. The ice must be thick enough to support helicopter operations and all guests hiking

And unbelievably - all four conditions are now aligned. Tomorrow we are actually going to see the emperor penguins!